Alabama Chanin Inspired Skirt

"The body characterizes everything it touches.  What it makes it traces over with the marks of its pulses and breathings, its excitements, hesitations, flaws, and mistakes. On its good work, it leaves the marks of skill, care, and love persisting through hesitations, flaws, and mistakes. And to those of us who love and honor the life of the body in this world, these marks are precious things, necessities of life." - Wendell Berry

I must confess that for as long as I've been on Pinterest, I have been pinning Alabama Chanin.  Just enamored with the intricate designs that they create with jersey knit, applique, and embroidery.  The appeal grew and grew the more I learned about how the company started, who they employ, and how each garment is handmade, hand sewn.  It's all so beautiful and honorable.

I found inspiration and instruction to make my own skirt from several Alabama Chanin books that I found at the library.  They've written them for people like me who have been inspired and want to try their own hand at making.

My initial plan was to stencil one of the patterns from the book onto my fabric and do the applique.  But, I also wanted to be sure that I was making a size that would fit me before investing all of that time...like hours and hours and hours.

So, this skirt is my muslin - a wearable muslin.  It bears some resemblance to this one.

I made the Swing Skirt which is from the Alabama Stitch Book.  The pattern is also in their Alabama Studio Sewing Patterns book which I got for my birthday this year.  This book is an awesome value because it has all of the patterns from every book and includes new ones as well.  It also details fitting and hand sewing techniques.

 The whole point of sewing this skirt for me was to hand sew the seams and waistband.  My stitching is a bit rough, but I know how much work went into it, so it is very satisfying to wear this handmade, hand sewn skirt.  

The side seams are sewn using the outside felled seams technique.  The seams are first sewn toward the outside of the garment, so that the seams are exposed.  Then, they are laid to one side and stitched down with an embroidery stitch.  I chose to use the Cretan stitch, which is one that is often used on their garments. The thread I used is the same that they recommend - button craft thread.  I  like the tone on tone look.

On the front and back of the skirt I used the open-felled seam technique.  This is when you sew the seam on the outside of the garment and then open the seam to add the embroidery.  Here I used the Herringbone stitch.  I left the seam allowance a bit too long, so it curls over some of the embroidery.  But, in some ways it also just adds to the earthy nature of it that I love.

In one of her interviews, Natalie Chanin shared that sewing the seams raw side out was a reflection of how she felt at the time she made her first t-shirt this way in New York.  It is an exposure of something not normally seen, nor shared, and not considered lovely.  But, when we dare do so, something beautiful can become of it.

The last piece of the skirt is the waistband.  They recommend using fold-over elastic.  So, that is what I used as well.  I also used the Cretan stitch here.  This is a bit of the inside view of the knots tied to secure the embroidery.  She is very specific about how to tie the knot, leaving the tails long, and uses the knots as embellishment on the outside of some garments.

This skirt actually ended up a bit too big.  I was overly cautious on sizing because I didn't want to end up with a tight fitting skirt - just not me.  However, with the double layer of jersey, it really weighs down and just feels a bit droopy.  Next time I will have to size down some.  It was all very much worth the time and effort however.  Not wasted at all because the process was so very satisfying and personal.

Blue and White Striped Tote - Improvised!

I've always loved making bags.  I've made many different kinds of bags over the years, most of them given as gifts.  They are my favorite thing to make because you don't have to fit them to anybody's body.  One size fits all!

I've been needing a tote bag for months now - you know the kind of bag you are always reaching for to carry books, a sweater for an evening that might turn chilly, or perhaps a knitting project in process.  All of the totes around the house always feel too big or not quite nice enough.  So, I finally made one!

I decided not to use a pattern, but rather just begin with some basic measurements and see what would happen.  Sometimes I love the freedom of sewing that way!  In the beginning, I cut the fabric so that the stripes would go horizontally across the bag.  But, once it was cut and I sewed up the sides, I realized that it was too deep and not wide enough.  Instead of starting over, I just ripped out one of the sides and turned it so that the opening would be wide and the bag not so deep.  It turned out to be the perfect size.

And the direction of the fabric changed from horizontal to vertical - unexpected, but fun!  I used a heavy cotton for the lining.  The neutral tan color goes perfect with the blue and white.  I cut the lining the same size as the outer fabric.  I sewed up three sides on both the lining and outside fabric.

I wasn't sure how I was going to finish off the bag since I had sewn all three sides up and realized I hadn't left a gap in the lining for turning the bag.  So, I put the lining inside and folded it over twice toward the outside.  I liked the look, so I just top-stitched all the way around.  This made it so easy to finish and added some interest to the overall look of the bag.  When your are improvising, nothing is a mistake, it's an opportunity to try something different.  The finished size of the the bag is 18 x 11 x 5 inches.

I used the same heavy cotton for the straps and cut them about 25 inches long and 4 inches wide.  I folded the sides in 1/2 inch and then again for a finished width of 1 1/2 inches after stitching up both edges.  Usually I tuck the straps in between the lining and the outside.  I had to think of another way since I had folded the top edge over.  So, I just stitched them to the outside of the bag using the square and "x" top stitching pattern for extra strength.

 I've already used the bag a few times and I'm really happy with the size and sturdiness.

 

Now everyone, go improvise!

Summer Goes On - Mercer Tunic

The Mercer Tunic by Whitney Deal is another top that I've been wearing all summer.  The past couple days temps have reached back up into the 90's, so it's a perfect time to blog it...and wear it!

I used a cotton voile fabric in a bright whimsical blue.  I really like it because it's lightweight, but not sheer, and sturdy enough to hold up through wash and wear.  I would definitely use something lightweight to make this top.  I may try making one in double gauze next time.

Whitney did a great job on this pattern incorporating french seams (love those!)  I also like the cut on the shoulders.  It drops down just a bit and almost acts like a cap sleeve.  Incidentally, I really want to find a good basic pattern that has cap sleeves.  I've tried drafting my own to add onto some of the patterns that I've already purchased, but they haven't worked out just right.  If you've made one that you like, let me know.

Here's a view of the back showing the yoke construction along with some gathering for the bodice.

The gathers give it that tunic-y, flow-y feel.  It's not very long on me because I'm tall, but I am happy with the way it turned out.

 

Highly recommend the Mercer Tunic pattern from a meritorious designer!  

Biscayne Blouse Thrice Made

 

I've been wearing the Biscayne Blouse all summer long, so I can say without a doubt that this pattern by Hey June Handmade is definitely a favorite of mine.

The first one that I made is the light blue floral cotton.  I made it as a muslin and it fit so well, that I have worn it regularly.

 

 The neutral linen blouse is the vision I originally had for the pattern.  I love linen - the feel, the look, and the timeless nature of the fabric.  The neutral linens appeal to my sense of connection with the land.  This piece of linen was actually a skirt in its original form.  That is why you see the seams on the front and back, which I think add some texture and interest.

French seams and a hidden placket give the blouse an awesome finish.

Detail on the hidden placket

 The third blouse is also linen in my favorite color blue.

 

This one has a button down front because I cut the pattern out of an existing xxl long-sleeved linen shirt.  I love how the linen drapes on this one.  This is the only one that has a pocket.  It was on the original shirt, so I just sized it down and moved it over a bit.

 

 Will be making more of these - hope you do too!

My Cheyenne Cup of Tea <<< A Floral Flavored Gingham

It is so great when you find the perfect top and then realize that you can actually make the same top over and over again in as many colors and fabrics that you can possibly find.

The Cheyenne Tunic is truly my cup of tea.  It is comfortable, it is versatile, and flattering all at the same time.  It also has just enough part and pieces to it that you can really give it your own flair.

I began, thinking that I would make the tunic in all black and white gingham.  I was given tons of the fabric and thought it would be a good place to start.  I started cutting it all out, intending to make a long sleeved top.  As I laid out the sleeves with the body, I realized it was just way too much black and white checkers for me.

So, I went on the hunt through my stash for something to complement the fabric and found a beautiful, colorful, cheery floral.  When I put them next to one another I knew it was meant to be...

It suddenly felt like the piece came alive by adding a little coral here and a little yellow there.  I ended up with splashes of color on the front placket, the top of the back, and the sleeves.

The Cheyenne Tunic pattern is from Hey June!  This is the second pattern I've used from Hey June.  The first was the Sloan Leggings, which is also a great pattern.  I blogged about them in my last post.

The pdf pattern file is set up nicely so that you can print just the size(s) that you want to make.  The instructions were also really clear.  I referred to the sew along tutorial on the Hey June website for most of it as well.  The actual pictures taken of the process really helped, especially when it came time to do the plackets.

The biggest challenge that I ran into had to do with the fabric and sleeves.  I began by cutting the long sleeve version.  However, when I tried it on and tried to roll up the long sleeves, it became too tight to roll the fabric up all the way up to use the button tab.  The two issues I found were that the fabric was a bit thick and I am also a tall person.  I probably should have lengthened the sleeves from the very beginning.

By the time I realized it wasn't going to work, I had already cut both sleeves.  I also realized that I would probably be wearing the top with the sleeves rolled up all of the time anyway, so I just cut it back to the 3/4 sleeve line.  Here's the picture of the cut.  By the way, the little floral accent was a nice way to hide the stitching from the sleeve tab on the underside of the sleeve.

Cutting sleeve back to 3/4 sleeve (good bye to my beautiful placket!)

The 3/4 sleeve was still a bit short for my arm - it hit me pretty much at the elbow.  In order to make the cuff more comfortable, I lengthened it and just overlapped it.  Next time, I plan to cut a longer sleeve and also grade the sleeve from medium to large in order to widen the lower part of the arm.

Another adjustment I made was to leave off the buttons on the front placket.  I really liked the look of just having the solid pretty fabric without the muddling of buttons and button holes.  I just sewed the placket up part of the way so it is still possible to get it on and off.
 

The Cheyenne Tunic is definitely going to become a staple for me as it can be made in all sorts of fabrics.  I have a similar top that I bought which has a rayon sort of front and knit for the back and sleeves.  It is so comfortable.  I'd love to make more of them and plan to soon!

From Slumber to Sloan >>> Upcycled Leggings

I basically live in skirts and leggings over the winter.  I've discovered since switching from jeans to leggings, that leggings actually do a better job at keeping my legs warm.  That's not why I originally made the switch, but it's definitely a reason to be excited about them.

As the weather began to turn cold, I realized that I only have two pair of leggings that I really like to wear.  One of them is more of a cropped fall/spring pair and the other (which I'm wearing right now) is a down to your ankles pair that gets worn pretty much every day.  I realized that I REALLY needed another pair (for everyone's sake).

I looked in stores, but wasn't too happy - so much black, no creativity whatsoever.  And, no brown in sight!  I came to the realization that to get any sort of variety, I'd have to make them myself!  So, I went to Pinterest and found the Sloan legging pattern by Hey June (affiliate).  It sounded like a great pattern to me especially when I saw that there was actually a tall size included with the pattern.  To top it all off I got it on sale - what more can I say?

Ok, so now you are thinking - why the stripes?  Since this was the first time I had sewn leggings, I wanted to find some fabric I could practice with.  I was shopping at my local thrift store and came across the perfect knit dress...a very large knit dress.  Time to come off the rack, wake up, and become something new!

It happened to be a Liz Claiborne dress that I got for just $1.  I was pretty happy with the find because it was just one long piece of knit fabric with no seams down the middle.  The fabric is made of 95% cotton and 5% spandex.  The pattern calls for a fabric with a bit more stretch, but I really like the feel of cotton.  My favorite pair of leggings (the ones I have on right this minute:) has the exact same blend and they are just so much more comfortable than the other ones I have, made of more stretchy material.                   

The pattern was really easy to cut.  I just turned the dress inside out and and laid the pattern down on top of both layers, pinned, and cut them out at the same time.  This actually helped with lining up the stripes for sewing because I left the original seams intact (they somehow sewed them perfectly aligned - amazing).

There was really only enough fabric to do the legs.  But, I found an outgrown kid's navy blue knit skirt to cut up for the waistband.  I think it matches great and added some contrast to the never ending stripes.

While I was at it, I also added the two grey patches right above the knees.  The material came from a sweater that was too small.  I've been itching to cut up a sweater - just to see what would happen.  Would it all suddenly unravel?  It was surprisingly easy to cut and sew and didn't run away on me (and quite an exhilarating experience at that).

Instead of piecing the leggings, I just did an overlay.  I'm glad I did it that way because I discovered that it did not work to just lay the piece straight across the stripes.  It had to be angled in order to reach the other side.

I finally figured it had to do with the lines on either side of the leg being different angles and that I should have probably cut the pieces at an angle to begin with.  The only way that thought even entered my mind is because my daughter is doing Geometry for math - found out it really is pretty useful stuff.

So, I guess you could call this pair a sort of muslin (who says a muslin has to be boring and useless!).  In making the muslin I cut the leggings a size larger than what I actually measured because I'm always paranoid that my cutting won't be straight enough.  In that case, it always helps to leave some wiggle room.

I probably left a little bit too much wiggle room because they are pretty roomy.  And, although I used the elastic around the top of the waistband, I did not have any of the knit interfacing.  I think that would definitely help to make it more snug.  For my next pair (yes, there will be many more to come), I will be more brave and cut the right size and try to get ahold of some of that knit interfacing.

I didn't sew in the pocket because I didn't think I'd need one in this pair.  In reality these will probably become a pair of pajamas or a wear around the house kind of pair of leggings.  But, if I get brave enough or am in the right kind of mood, I might wear them like this!

 

I don't know, I think I actually kind of like them...

Savor a Selah >>> A Kite Banner Tutorial

How often do you purposely pause each day?  How often do you take a moment to just breathe and reflect?  Would time still pass as quickly as it seems if we took the time to truly stop each day?  Most of us need help to push the pause button in our lives. And that is where a "Selah" enters the picture.

Selah is a Hebrew word which comes from the book of Psalms and means simply "to pause".  Our family has adopted the word as a reminder in this hustle and bustle kind of life to take the time to turn our thoughts heavenward.  When we "Selah" we pause to reflect on the good things we've been blessed with and give thanks.

We've had a hand written Selah sign hung over our table for awhile and it truly causes us to pause and give thanks, especially at meal time.  Since it's become such a meaningful part of our lives, I wanted to create something more permanent than paper and also more pleasing to the eye.  Thus was born the Selah Kite Banner.

 

This is a banner in the shape of little kites appliqued with the letters to spell Selah.  I chose the kite shape because it speaks to me of lifting our eyes from the immediate circumstances around us, up toward the heavens where we express our hearts to Abba Father.  It was a joy to create and I hope you will enjoy making one too.

Here are the supplies that you will need to make a Selah banner:

>> 2 copies of the Selah kite template: one printed on paper and one on cardstock found here: Selah Kite Template  The template has a 1/2" seam allowance marked by the dashed lines.
>> 1 copy of Selah letter template found here: Selah Letter Template 
>> 6 different fabrics: I used a combination of fabrics that I had in my stash, remnants, and clothing too small or not needed.  For each kite you will need two 10 1/2" x 8" pieces of fabric.  The 6th piece of fabric is for the lettering.  You can fit the letters on an 11" x 4" piece of fabric.
>> Wonder Under by Pellon (or your favorite fusible web product) (also 11" x 4")
>> 16 1/2" of 3/4" wide lace or ribbon for hanging loop and tail
>> ribbon, lace, trim or string to hang up your banner (length will be determined by the area you decide to hang the banner)

{Instructions}

Print out the Selah Kite Template on paper (easier to pin), cut out around the solid border, and pin to your fabric.  Cut the fabric along the edges of the template which includes a 1/2" seam allowance.

For those who love all the colors, choices, and possibilities of fabric combinations this is going to be a lot of fun because now... you do this a total of 10 times so that you have 5 coordinating fronts and backs.

My first kite was made from this fabric which has some cheery cherry blossoms set against the ice blue cold of winter.  I was so excited to finally bring this beauty out and off of the shelf.

After cutting out the kite shapes, you need to make the applique letters.  I used the 6th piece of fabric (red with polka dots) for the letters.

Print and cut out the Selah Letter Template.  I've included both forward facing and backward facing letters on the template, but only used the backward ones for this project.  The forward facing letters are included for reference only.

Place your backward facing letter on the smooth side of the Wonder Under (fusible web) and trace around it.  Then cut it out and iron the rough side onto your fabric according to the directions included with the Wonder Under.

Cut out the fabric letter and peel off the paper backing from the Wonder Under.  Now place it facing the correct way onto the front of your first kite piece (centered between the two side points of the kite like picture below) and iron according to package directions.

 

Now take your appliqued front kite piece to your sewing machine and zigzag around the letter.  I did this with a matching thread which you can see if you look closely in the picture below.

 

  

Now take the second copy of the Selah Kite Template (on cardstock) and cut along the dashed line which marks the seam allowance.  This will be the template that you use to iron your 1/2" seam allowances shown in the pictures below.  

**Note: you might want to use the dry setting on your iron for the seam allowances to avoid burning your fingers with the steam (like I did!).  You can switch to steam to help set the creases once the initial folding is done.

Place the template in the center of your appliqued front kite piece.  Begin to iron the seam allowance along the top section.  One section will fold over the other to make the top point.  Then iron the point at the bottom up to make a straight line crease.  Finally iron over the remaining two sides.  One section will fold over the other at the bottom point. 

Now remove the cardstock template.  Cut 3 1/2" of ribbon for the hanging loop.  Iron it in half and place it at the top point of the kite sticking above the point about 3/4".  Cut a second piece of ribbon that is 13" for the tail.  Place it at the bottom point of the kite as shown in the 1st picture below.

Iron the seams for the back piece of the kite (pink and white striped piece) as described above and place this piece on top of the front piece.  Carefully match the points and pin it together.  Topstitch a 1/4" seam around the entire edge of the kite.

Now cut three pieces of scrap fabric to decorate the tail of the kite.  The pieces I used were approximately 5 1/2" x 3/4".  I left them with raw edges because I liked the fluttery look it gave.  If you sew seams they will look more stiff.  Tie them on in a loose knot evenly spaced on the tail.

I used a pretty pink and white trim that I had in my stash to string up the kites.  You simply thread the trim through the loops you created at the top point of the kite. 

Repeat the steps until you've made all five beautiful kites.  Don't they look so sweet hanging together and...

...all of that hard work comes with an added bonus.  The kites are completely reversible.  I decided not to applique the other side of mine, but you certainly could.

The door is open wide to the creative possibilities for this little banner.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.  If you have questions or comments use the comment section below or contact me over on the side bar.  I'd love to hear from you.

May you savor a Selah today!